Hello,
After several weeks of absence from the blog that was due to a busy summer.
To begin, 16 days of canoe from Whitehorse to Dawson to rediscover the joys of navigation in the wilderness. Then a few days hiking in the direction of the hut in Vanier then stroll a horse to give a foretaste of experience in this style.
Happy reading!
September French to attack the Yukon
Day:
Saturday, August 8, the appointment is given at 10 am at Icy Waters where the canoe hire picks us with our luggage and supplies. What barrels sealed waterproof bags, cooking equipment, fishing poles, dogs .... And even two guitars. The 16-seater van that picked us up and literally full as an egg. There is some doubt is felt! The canoes will they be large enough to store all our bazaar?? Even the landlord did not return.
Then starts loading the 4 canoes:
- Matthew and Eric: 3 tons, personal belongings, dog ....
- Adeline and Adrian: 2 tons all the tents including a 25 kg, dishes, personal belongings, guitar ....
- Thibault and Audrey: 2 tons, the stove for a tent, fishing equipment, personal belongings, second box of dishes, ...
- Marine and Speedoo: 1 ton, personal belongings, guitar, ... Two in the canoe but that one who rows! The other is content to watch the scenery or worse to sleep! Something he knows very well done!
After several weeks of absence from the blog that was due to a busy summer.
To begin, 16 days of canoe from Whitehorse to Dawson to rediscover the joys of navigation in the wilderness. Then a few days hiking in the direction of the hut in Vanier then stroll a horse to give a foretaste of experience in this style.
Happy reading!
September French to attack the Yukon
Day:
Saturday, August 8, the appointment is given at 10 am at Icy Waters where the canoe hire picks us with our luggage and supplies. What barrels sealed waterproof bags, cooking equipment, fishing poles, dogs .... And even two guitars. The 16-seater van that picked us up and literally full as an egg. There is some doubt is felt! The canoes will they be large enough to store all our bazaar?? Even the landlord did not return.
Then starts loading the 4 canoes:
- Matthew and Eric: 3 tons, personal belongings, dog ....
- Adeline and Adrian: 2 tons all the tents including a 25 kg, dishes, personal belongings, guitar ....
- Thibault and Audrey: 2 tons, the stove for a tent, fishing equipment, personal belongings, second box of dishes, ...
- Marine and Speedoo: 1 ton, personal belongings, guitar, ... Two in the canoe but that one who rows! The other is content to watch the scenery or worse to sleep! Something he knows very well done!
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Finally with a little organization manages to bring everything!
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For the first day, about thirty miles traveled between Whitehorse and entered Lake Laberge.
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Camping for the night on a very large island at the edge of a small arm calm and shallow promise for pike fishing. Just arrived, the fiercest out saplings to try to catch the next day's meal.
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Some time later, Thibault returned triumphant with a beautiful pike of 80 cm long and Eric with his counterpart after the dinner. Phew, the food is safe tomorrow night!
the menu: burgers offered by the local supermarket, fried potatoes, potato salad and dessert. It is also an opportunity to test our new cooking system for daily bread which is revealed ''Brilliant.''
Second day:
The weather is beautiful at sunrise, we decided to take our time to get to the lake. We follow the small arms gifts aware almost nonexistent.
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We pledge last entry in Lake. This huge lake, which we do not distinguish the opposite bank where the Yukon comes out.
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The storm subsides and it's quiet and music that we enjoy the pike.
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Suddenly around 4 am on a slight noise is heard on the canvas as a "knock, knock, knock ... .. "Ever louder, more and more intense ... We have to obviously, a good rain falling on us. Hopefully that will not be a storm, but not a rain that lasts days. Yet the hours passed and the music does not change. We who are planning to get up early to try to get out of the lake as quickly as possible, are caught in a severe crisis of laziness.
Third day:
Finally around 10 am the rain seem slow, which takes us out of bed.
Adeline can not open his left eye. It seems she was bitten by one of his dirty animals, which caused an allergic reaction by her eyelid swelling.
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After a breakfast of shock came in the tent,
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Determined to move forward in a long and no longer be on the lake the next night, I fixed a tip off and takes it in azimuth. I found enough speeds sensations to paddle solo, freedom that was the response of each canoe paddling ... but wanting to stay ahead it was right to impose a fairly intense pace I knew was going to tire more quickly. But no matter for the moment and canoeing is like walking one ahead first with the head. And this point, I want to do it! As a measure, my difference with the other tightens, then I start to overtake me and Eric Navy. I try to follow suit, but impossible. They go too fast, but realized my goal and go straight there. So I let girls ...
We start looking for a place to camp about 5 km ( hour) before the point in question and because Audrey Thibault looks tired. But the miles go by and not the slightest opportunity to place a tent. It finally just at the tip, a little forward, we find a small gravel beach where we can put our three tents. Common with the great roaring his stove tonight to eliminate moisture. Eric who snores too loud taste of Adrian, is therefore seen out hunting in a small tent. Audrey and the third for Thibault.
Express Meals, pesto paste, apple, tea beside a large fire to recover a bit while enjoying a beautiful sunset on the opposite bank Lake.
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Going to bed, I refill the stove to keep the tent dry. But even the draw down to a minimum, the temperature rises more and more and finally, Adrien is just a side is forced to head out from under the tent so you do not cook. The other Marine, Adeline and myself can not seem accommodated by temperature.
Fourth day:
At sunrise, the weather is beautiful, the lake: a sea of oil, not a wave, not a joke ... Times as we dare not even imagine.
Breakfast Bagels makes Nutella, jam, honey, ... and even laughing cow for some irreducible!
time to load the canoes under the skeptical eye of Speed and Oumiack who do not understand that we partner with such a time.
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Each chose his path on the lake to get there as quickly as possible. Thibault and Audrey chose to cross the lake in order to follow through on the eastern shore where the route is slightly shorter. As for us, we almost azimuth on the exit while avoiding to find ourselves in the middle of the lake for safety reasons. But again, the wind starts to blow, but in the back which pushes us and allows us to maintain a proper pace.
What joy when we reach Lower Laberge, leaving the lake. Small snack break, visit of the former''village''of 3-4 houses with his telegraph post,
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We have fun in passing in some small rapids, literally fly around 15 km / h away by the current which is relatively strong here.
Then at the bend of a curve is our island. Always so beautiful, with a water clarity rare for a river of this flow. Beautiful place to camp, a table, a barbecue, fish ... And who swallow unimaginable quantity. Barely out of the canoe that Thibault no longer resist the temptation. First launched
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... The dinner will of himself, with shadow home fries with bacon and prunes (a variant of the joke, you've surely recognized), cooking two loaves for breakfast ...
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Then dancing under the notes of the orchestra''the cellar of the old''Meythet live please, decorated with digestive Savoy: the wormwood and SAPINETTE. Who will also
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A wonderful night, last lulled by the murmur of the stream, dreaming of the wonderful day that we just passed.
Fifth Day:
up early for some, attracted by the desire to reconnect with the pleasures of fly fishing in the sunrise through the morning to the other ....
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But what fun than going out of the tent, even after extending a night, her eyes still full of sleep where it distinguishes only vaguely to the outside world, to take his fishing rod, make a half-launched crappy but whatever, feeling almost as dry as the subtle touches of the shadow entering the nymph, punishable by a reflex strike, see these magnificent fish come to us before returning to their environment as quickly as possible. A daydream or a half, but more beautiful than anything we could imagine before.
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Departure early afternoon as it is on this small island.
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Coming, Speed to the idea of jumping canoeing on an area of shoal and then follows us along the shore. Despite his disdain for the aquatic environment, it does not hesitate to cross a stretch of water more than ten meters wide to swim back to the camp.
the other side of the Yukon we saw a group of 15In goose who will then come graze algae just before us. They are beautiful, beginning their long migration south, but already indicate the end of the summer when we are only on August 12.
the program tonight, of course fly fishing with Audrey and Adeline as a guide and respective Adrien Thibault.
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At the evening meal is still shadows but this time with rice. But to wait for our fishermen to come, the sky clouds over and it's a wonderful downpour we baptized the drink.
Sixth Day:
Depart late morning under bright sun. A few hundred meters after break fast for some of us to visit the ruins of an old steamer (steamboat) stranded on an island for over fifty years.
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In short term we build a sort of raft with our four canoes.
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I do not pence as we gain speed, but instead, it is interesting to talk with others who are generally far ahead or behind.
We try even a landing on an island to have a bite when we make a few turns at 360 degrees before we stop.
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The island is literally invaded by giant mayfly larvae (a kind of gem it seems). Thibault did not return the size exuviae and larvae. This may explain in part the densities and the large size of fish in the Yukon.
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Shortly before reaching the village of Big Salmon, which is at the confluence of the Big Salmon River and Yukon, we separate our raft. With Eric
no reason we spend on the right of an island where the water appears shallow and go out after hitting bottom a few tens of meters.
Canoes Adrien Thibault and follow us, and Adeline Adrien fared pretty well but Thibault and Audrey finds himself completely blocked. They must get out to reduce the draft.
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On reaching the camp site is impressive as the landscape has changed since my last visit two years ago.
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Regardless, I am confident that our fishermen exceptional to find a way to access the water we look for the meal.
The thing was also pretty fast since returning quickly with a beautiful salmon that feed us for two days.
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A little later he also had the chance to catch a beautiful Shee Fish or "unknown" which is released too early because of the rarity of this fish.
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We met two Germans who come to the Big Salmon River. We spend part of the evening together. One of them plays the harmonica and Adrien and Eric accompanies beautifully with the guitar.
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But what will become Miss Sapinette?? It is totally become addicted to this drink!
Seventh day:
By looking up at 10:00 what a surprise! People from all over who visit the ancient village. Japanese, Canadians, Germans, French ... Any land that is held here and we enjoy watching our bannock for the breakfast. The
bannocks or bannock was the food Basic trappers or timber men for decades. It is a sort of pancake made of flour and baking powder which is incorporated in what was at hand. It can be sweet as this morning with cranberries or raisins, cinnamon, apple cubes, salt ... Or with bacon, cheese, pieces of meat ...
Another way to cook bannock involves taking a piece of wood about five cm in diameter, the heat very hard on the outside (at the edge of burn) and then wrap a strip of dough around. It makes then cook, turning after wood above the fire.
We start fast enough to escape all the fuss and are quiet river. Along the way, we spend close to a sort of backwater that the shape of a lake a few hectares to about one meter of water. It smells like a pike, full nose. Small break to check. Indeed from the first few meters, I see a magnificent part in the approach of the canoe. A few shots later spoons is a wonderful bill of almost 80 cm, which lets himself be followed quickly by two or three other smaller. Adrien
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Fishing is not exceptional we leave fast enough.
Starting again, thinking camp just a few miles downstream, I let my dog run on the bank beside the canoe. But when we stop another canoe double and continues its path. My dog thinking it is a canoe in our group continues to run after him, followed by Speed, who saw her from running to jumping canoeing. We wait for about half an hour, hoping and Speed qu'Oumiack realize their mistake. But no, you have to go obviously, they continue to run downstream. I walk down a few kilometers along the tracks in the mud to make sure they are not trained to run after various beasts in the forest. But no, the two tracks side by side are parallel to the River. Fast enough, it seems (given the evidence) that they adopt too. At this rate the dogs, especially the Huskies as qu'Oumiack can travel nearly a hundred miles. There is an urgent attempt to catch up. Especially since I also came across beautiful tracks of wolves and black bears fresh. And each After experiencing a wolf crosses that of a dog: the snack in the evening! I do not share my fears Marine who already seems quite upset by the loss of Speed. All km or two, I stop to check for traces on the bank. And always the same thing: straight downstream. But when will they finally stop?? It's almost over an hour and a half after we couront them, is already more than 15 km of ene traveled. Suddenly I see off the canoe and Audrey Thibault seems attached to the bank. Time to get out the binoculars to verify that I distinguish in the distance on the opposite shore, a white spot that grows in view of an eye. It Oumiack who crossed the Yukon by over 500 m wide and that this probably goes back upstream to our research. We go through as quickly as possible and arrive at the same time she did.
Navy wants to follow his advice but I stay on the other bank. Indeed, Speed did not like water, it may have continued on the same bank. I also want to give a final blow to twin Thibault and perceive our Speedoo leash. I cry at the new Marine who hastened to join him.
I get my dog is in great shape, just a little tired from the events.
What I had not seen in the binoculars is that Speed was in the''good idea''to find a Porcupine and attack. Currently, there is blood in the mouth with more than 150 peaks and by another.
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For those unfamiliar with the porcupine, hedgehog unlike the quills of the size of a toothpick stand and remains stuck in the flesh of his victim. A system of tongue, he continues to progress well. May sentence him to death if the animal biting encounter Sensitive areas such as heart, lungs,
... One thing to take a grip, stop the poor dog in every way and take away her spikes as soon as possible. Easier said than done! It's awesome power that can have an animal of about 25 kg. At the beginning, more than four persons who are required to keep the poor lying Speed, already terrified by all his quills really believes they want to kill him. He screams, cries, struggles the most he can ... even wrapped in a blanket, we are obliged to let him recover from an extraction of a dozen spines.
But after an hour of struggle, the poor dog submits totally to us so we can remove the remaining 70% in less than 15 minutes. Including those poorly positioned so that at the bottom of the mouth or the palate ...
Finally, apart from one or two piquant who broke while trying to extract them and which caused a slight infection of an ene 15 days Later, the little Speedoo is thriving!
A wonderful place to camp is located a few miles downstream, but when we arrive (after 9pm), it is already occupied. Quick glance at the map, the following potential and reasonable size our three tents to house is over 15 km downstream. Nearly 1h30 paddle. After all his emotions, this new medium is welcome. Down below a few meters, we discover a beautiful little area. But a tent with anyone inside is planted in the middle. We are about to leave when the owner of the tent comes to us and said that he can move his tent in the nearby camp, because it is part of the same group.
It is with relief that we stay here overnight.
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The salmon steak and pasta are cooked quickly and swallowed.
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Eighth Day:
After eating some bannock and did a quick wash for the boldest
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Small quiet day where certain benefits from having good rower to play music ... We
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recroisons several times our German harmonica that greets us each time with an air of yodeling.
We meet a nice male sheep lost in the middle of a huge cliff, wonder how it got there. Last
camps on an island which offered excellent seats a few years ago, but totally different floods are covered with dead trees, dunes, ...
In trying to catch the evening meal, Thibault breaks his new cane a pike Sage Silk 9. You start to get used,''is that''the fourth of the season. A catch too many fish too big ... the material does not follow! Fortunately Eric saves us the meal with a small pike of 60 cm.
We take the last evening, to remake the world in front of a magnificent fire that warms body and soul.
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Ninth Day:
Last little bf at the water's edge ... Bread, jam, tea ,....
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In short drive we passed a beautiful black bear, the sole of the whole trip.
Once in Carmack, sorting business and especially the food to see what you take with breakfast and Navy transition to the local supermarket to overcome a''terrible''lack of steak.
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Meanwhile the others charge the car like an egg! Even more space for a packet of tissue. Five or more before the dog and in all cases and grab a canoe on the roof!
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Once the little band part, it's time to take a hot shower, the earlier date of 8 days and do laundry. Thank you camping Carmack! Time time it feels good.
Laying of''good''hour to be fit for tomorrow. Passage of the program''Five Fingers''and a fast step of at least 70 km. Compared to steps 25 to 35 km we have done until now, the pace will change.
Suite As Soon As Possible!
Photos: Navy, Adele, Audrey, Thibault, Eric Matthew